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Erg Chigaga is the other great sand sea in Morocco, larger and far less visited than Erg Chebbi. There is no tarmac to it: the last stretch is sixty kilometres of piste by 4×4.
That is the point. Chigaga takes longer to reach and rewards it with dunes up to three hundred metres and a camp with almost nobody else in sight.
Pick-up at your riad or hotel in Marrakech. We return you to the same point or to Marrakech airport.
Between 7:00 and 8:00 in the morning, depending on the season.
Four days with one long driving stage and one rough piste section by 4×4. It suits travellers who want the emptier desert and do not mind the extra effort to reach it.
We collect you from your riad in Marrakech in the morning and head for the High Atlas. The Tizi n Tichka road climbs almost two thousand metres in a little over an hour of bends, between adobe villages and terraced fields clinging to the slope. We stop at the viewpoints at the pass, 2,260 metres up, and at one of the argan and mineral stalls along the way.
On the southern side the landscape turns mineral and we turn off for Ait Ben Haddou. The ksar, a UNESCO site since 1987, is a pile of earthen houses stacked on a hill across the Ounila river. We cross on foot and climb to the granary at the top, the whole valley below us.
Lunch in the village, looking at the kasbah, then on to Ouarzazate. There is time for the Taourirt kasbah, which belonged to the Glaoui family, or for the film studios that have made the town the desert set for half of Hollywood.
In the afternoon we turn south over the Tizi n Tinififft pass and drop into the Draa valley at Agdz, with a stop at the Tamnougalt kasbah. Dinner and overnight in Agdz or Zagora.
We follow the Draa south through the palm grove, the longest in Morocco, past earthen kasbahs and villages built right into the palms.
At Zagora we pass the old sign giving Timbuktu at fifty-two days by camel, then carry on to M Hamid, where the tarmac ends and the Sahara proper begins.
From there it is about sixty kilometres of piste by 4×4, across flat hamada, dry lake beds and small scattered dunes, with the Chigaga massif slowly growing on the horizon.
We reach the camp at Erg Chigaga in the late afternoon, in time to climb one of the big dunes for sunset. Dinner, music by the fire and a night in a tent with almost nobody else around.
Sunrise over Erg Chigaga, which at this scale and with this little traffic is a different experience from the dunes at Merzouga.
After breakfast we take the piste west towards Foum Zguid, a long crossing over open desert with Lake Iriqui, dry most of the year, along the way.
The track reaches tarmac at Foum Zguid, and from there we head north through Taznakht, known for its wool carpets, where we can stop at a weaving cooperative.
Dinner and overnight in the Taznakht or Ouarzazate area, depending on how the day runs.
A relaxed last morning. If we finished near Ouarzazate there is time for the Taourirt kasbah or a second look at Ait Ben Haddou with fewer people around.
We climb the Tizi n Tichka, stopping at the viewpoints at the pass for a final look at the southern side.
Down through the Berber villages and terraced fields to the plain, with the range behind us.
We reach Marrakech in the afternoon and leave you at your riad or at the airport.
